ctrl + c = copy
ctrl + v = paste
ctrl + x = cut
ctrl + z = delete/undo
ctrl + Shift + z = redo
ctrl + click = select multiple
ctrl + a = select all
ctrl + s = save
ctrl + d = duplicate clip
ctrl + Shift + s = save as
ctrl + Shift + n = new track
ctrl + f = fade in/fade out/crossfade
ctrl + f = fade in/fade out/crossfade
alt + mouse wheel = zoom
Shift + mouse wheel = horizontal scroll
alt + click (solo, mute, etc) = apply to all tracks
alt + click and drag (plugin) = copy plugin and settings
numpad 3 = quick record
Windows key + click and drag = scrub audio
That list is far from comprehensive, but those are the ones I believe everyone using Pro Tools should know, they really speed things up twofold, threefold, even. Could you imagine clicking mute on 20 tracks one by one? I've seen people do it, and it grinds my gears. Sorry, I won't rant!
Anyway, on to the actual editing process. My first priorities were naming tracks, and deleting the doubled up audio from Final Cut Pro, making sure my work space was as simple as possible. I then moved on to more complex and specific tasks. I set the grid to frames, which is handy for doing things like syncing a jump cut with the picture, but it's also useful to have a grid so things like automation can be matched between tracks exactly.
Here, you can see how I've faded between the yellow and green tracks at the top using a standard equal power fade, as it is much less noticeable than the equal gain variety, and is completely seamless if done right. Some clips require much larger fades, so using the checkerboard method is preferred, to allow you to quickly experiment and find the correct fade length, and giving you more control over what sounds get cut out.
Here, you can see how I've faded between the yellow and green tracks at the top using a standard equal power fade, as it is much less noticeable than the equal gain variety, and is completely seamless if done right. Some clips require much larger fades, so using the checkerboard method is preferred, to allow you to quickly experiment and find the correct fade length, and giving you more control over what sounds get cut out.
In this picture I am beginning the process of EQing out an unwanted frequency, in this case a refrigerator hum was in the background. I would begin by combing through frequencies with a 1 band EQ to find the offending frequency. If the frequency was prevalent over multiple harmonics, I would put a 7 band EQ on, and figure out the lowest of the offending frequencies, or "fundamental frequency", then cut out all integers of that frequency to completely remove the unwanted sound. I find intricate work like this is greatly aided by headphones.
Once I had all audio fixes done, as well as the little bits of Foley work that were needed, and the sound effects, like the gunshot (which I downloaded, along with some others, royalty free, from here), I was ready to move on to the final mix.
First, I turned the master down so that nothing was peaking, and there was plenty of head room. Then I simply listened back, watching the levels, setting things that should be at the same level to match, boosting anything that should stand out. I then panned everything that needed to be panned according to its position on screen. It's quite an intuitive process, and should definitely be done on speakers. It's also good practice to listen through with eyes closed and correct anything that sounds out of place. After this I boosted the master so that the loudest sounds were at an acceptable level, and bounced it out.
I have no doubt that Shane and James will want me to change a few little bits and pieces, but, I'm really happy with it. I got it done just in time and with no lapse in quality.